Shrimpton Couture Interviews Norma Kamali
By Shrimpton Couture on June 29, 2009
TORONTO (Herald de Paris) – About a month ago, I did a post on The Shrimpton Blog focusing on the career of one of my favorite designers – the talented Norma Kamali. That little write-up led to a wonderful and unexpected Thank You note from Norma’s team. After a few emails back and forth, I asked if I could interview Norma for my column – with the intent to talk about her early years, and to my utter delight she agreed. She is a most gracious and unassuming woman and I can clearly see how she has managed to maintain such a long and thriving career. The fashion community sometimes takes designers who have had long and distinguished careers but are outside of the couture houses a little bit for granted, focusing on them only after they leave the fashion industry. Norma has been designing since the late 1960s and heads up what is still a thriving and successful business. She has been producing extraordinary, wearable American designs for four decades. Her early designs are already highly sought after vintage pieces and her present pieces are sure to be future collectibles! It is my great privilege to explore some of the early years with Ms Kamali.
Shrimpton Couture (TWITTER @ShrimptonCoutur): I am trying hard not to ask you a million questions myself, because I took the liberty of letting some of my followers on Twitter have the opportunity to ask as well, so I will alternate their queries with mine. It was terrific to get such a strong response from people wanting to ask you questions – you are very much held dear in the hearts of the vintage and fashion community.
I’m curious to learn how you got started. I know you opened a shop in 1968, but then something flipped the switch from shop owner to designer. I couldn’t tell if you designed right away and just carried other lines to round out your inventory. Few people are aware that you carried Biba in that first shop. Did the British Boutique movement influence your own designs and what was it like to go overseas to buy for the shop at such an early age?
Norma Kamali: I was traveling every weekend to London in the sixties as a result of
the job I took with Northwest Airlines as reservationist in their offices. For four years I traveled at a rate of $29! I was in London, the best time ever, and would bring back clothes for friends and then decided to open a shop and sell them. I did this initially and then I felt the styles needed were not available so I added my ideas to the selection and found they were the most popular and that’s how it all started.
@coutureallure asks: I would love to learn your feelings and the experience of opening OMO in 1978….success as validation and such?
NK: I started in the 1960’s with my ex husband but in ‘77 divorced and went on my own -therefore OMO. My challenge was to learn how to run the business side of the business and it was humbling but extremely empowering.
SC: When I think of Norma Kamali I instantly think of your gowns made of parachute fabric (because I lust after owning one). What comes to your mind first when you think of Norma Kamali – the brand?
NK: Timeless style….and a recognizable brand
@joulesstar asks: Which season/s was the sleeping coat bag done in fleece?
NK: Mid 80’s
@coutureallure asks: I’d like to know about your collection of vintage/antique hats. Do you still have it? Will you ever exhibit or sell it?
NK: On my 50th birthday I decided to never hold on to possessions any more and I sold and gave away everything from my collections, my furniture collections and all the 20’s to 50’s vintage I had collected. I don’t keep anything I don’t use from books to music and now I download everything. I do have eyewear and Newley next to sell off and perhaps some vintage from the company archives.
SC: Whatever made you ever think to use parachute fabric in your designs anyway? To me that was so out there and yet you transformed a utilitarian fabric into some of the most beautiful gowns, how did you think to do that?
NK: I was in a period of transforming everything into “wearables” like my sleeping bag, Indian blankets, African mud cloth, and yes parachutes
SC: And what inspired using that same fabric for wedding dresses? Do you get requests for them now? I think I might die if I was to obtain a vintage one myself!
NK: The parachutes are a permanent part of the collection. They change styles and the classics stay … and yes they are real parachutes and we do amazing wedding gowns. This season jumpsuits and really good jackets are featured in the collection.
@WendyBrandes asks: I was kind of wondering what ordinary object you might turn into a coat nowadays?
NK: Battery run heating blanket.
@Zuburbia asks: If you were going to put three of your pieces in a time capsule to be saved forever which three would you choose?
NK: Ouch great question! The all in one dress … Can be worn 12 ways, my patented high heel sneakers, and the sleeping bag coat.
SC: Your bathing suit line is incredible and has been a mainstay of your career – they seem to be influenced by the forties – is there a story behind that?
NK: Classic timeless style is important to me. The style of many forties silhouettes seems to have been timeless. The collection also has many directions, check the website to see the range.
@juicyincouture asks: What or who the biggest influence on your designs is? Sounds a bit boring but I’d really love to know!
NK: At this point in my career I feel the moment we live in and all the influences like for instance the economy, new technology and mostly what women want and need…but also the colors in sunset, new fabrics……
SC: What do you think when you see people wearing a vintage piece that you designed from years and years ago?
NK: I feel good because it means the style is timeless and was a smart investment because of the value.
@TheSwelleLife asks: Cherie and I have discussed the future of vintage before, what is your view on the future of vintage? SC interjects: Norma this was a question originally asked of me – Denise wanted to know what I thought the future of vintage was since there is now such an influx of mass produced items out there)
NK: It is important to understand the past to invent the future so this can be as simple as wearing several decades at the same time which is something new to do with vintage and creates entirely new silhouettes. This economy will force people who were addicted to brands to look at new ways to wear what they have and when they add a style it should be special and enhance the opportunities in you closet.
SC: Are you ever tempted to re-create some designs straight from the archives – this seems to be a current trend amongst designers as the vintage movement becomes stronger?
NK: There are many styles like the sleeping bag coat and parachutes that are always in the line.
@M641 asks: Which singular piece or Collection as a whole is the most memorable……the one that you still stand in amazement of?
NK: It is actually the collection I am doing now for Walmart…20 dollars and under!! The styles and fabric were the same quality I did for the Everlast line and they produced it at 10 times the price. www.walmart.com. Tell me what you think!
@FaBuFun asks: This is incredibly exciting! Here’s my question – what keeps you up at night?
NK: Ideas and my sketch pad
SC: What do you find amusing that people publicly know about you that is NOT true?
NK: That I was at studio 54 every night when in fact I never was part of the studio entourage.
@LuvSunflower asks: How does it feels to be a CFDA honoree?
NK: It of course is an honor to receive awards however the truth is the real award is to find you life’s purpose and I am just discovering it now.
SC: What do you find amusing that people do NOT know about you?
NK: That’s easy very few people really know much about me.
@thefatandskinny asks: Where does your inspiration come from and how do you manage your awesome work load?
NK: I went to an Intuit once and she told me I had a guardian angel who sent me ideas in my dreams and I was not surprised because I see great ideas in my dreams and I don’t know where they come from… So as you now know I can’t take credit anymore for my work!
Yours in vintage,
Cherie
www.shrimptoncouture.com
Explore the world of Norma Kamali:
MORE Shrimpton Couture on L’Herald de Paris
Fun interview with a living legend. And I love the fact you incorporated varied questions from Twitter followers. Fabulous!
Best,
Anne
Oh, what a fantastic opportunity! Lovely interview, Cherie, and thanks for including us. How refreshing it is to be granted access to such an influential fashion great. Well done!
Wonderful interview! As someone who opened a boutique with my BF 3 years ago and is currently trying to get my independent design career rolling this is incredibly inspiring!! Great post Cherie!
Thanks to Norma Kamali and Cherie of SC for allowing us the rare opportunity to gain insight from an industry leader. We are looking very forward to the WalMart line! Best of luck! As an emerging brand..we look up to the greats..and are inspired by the classics,the moderns, and the bold- NK encompasses all of these!
In fashion and friendship,
Ina & Subu
M641
What a treat to have a view of NK’s artistic imagination and her comment about ideas coming in her dreams. I think that happens to many great artists in all fields who live and sleep their art. I loved her jump suit and lived in one in the 80’s and also appreciate that she is sensitive to the economy. Thanks for a sincere interview everyone.
LOVED, LOVED the interview with Norma Kamali. She is so amazing and an inspiration to us all. I always love to find out where the passion began with any artist. Norma went from a shop owner, to designer, and then to OMO. Now, after all these years in the fashion world she still amazes us with timeless pieces.
Being that very few people know much about Norma; what a privilege for you to have had this opportunity to interview her.
I’d like to thank you so much for allowing us Twitter followers to share in this awesome interview experience.
What a glorious interview! Thank you so much for inviting us to submit questions and giving us that opportunity. I knew Norma was a class act of Fashion, Beauty and Fun – but now I am heads over heel in love with her!
And that black bathing suit that you featured!
Beautiful – and so interesting and inspiring. Thank you!!
FaBuFun
http://www.twitter.com/fabufun
Cherie,
I loved this interview. Norma seems like such a genuine person and I love her comment about finding her life’s purpose now. It proves that we are always evolving and that we each have a predetermined path. Very inspirational on so many levels!
I love Norma so much! Great piece.